Campo Hermoso Gesha, Colombia

The Colombian coffee landscape has experienced a surge in innovation in recent years, as producers push the boundaries in coffee processing, and local policies adapt to the growing demand for such coffees. Edwin Noreña is a key player in this ongoing movement within the specialty coffee industry, characterized by experimental and science-driven processing. Edwin, a producer, certified coffee grader, Cup of Excellence head judge, and agro-industrial engineer, boasts two decades of experience cultivating high-end coffee on his 25-hectare estate, Finca Campo Hermoso, located in Quindío, Colombia. Over the past decade, he has dedicated himself to extensive research and experimentation in specialty coffee processing.

Recognizing the need to evolve the coffee production model, particularly in response to the rapidly changing tastes in the specialty coffee market, Edwin's coffee has earned a stellar reputation through international coffee competitions, placing him among esteemed Colombian producers.

Edwin actively contributes to the Santuario Project, an initiative led by Camilo Merizalde that collaborates with exceptional producers on post-harvest processing. The project facilitates connections between international roasters and green buyers. The Santuario Project serves as a bridge, linking specific markets worldwide with producers eager to innovate and provide new coffee experiences.

The carbonic maceration process, borrowed from the winemaking industry, represents a 90-year-old form of fermentation that gained popularity through the World Barista Championship. Selecting only the coffee cherries with a specific sugar content of 23 – 25 brix, they undergo a brief soak in water before entering two stages of anaerobic, carbon dioxide-rich environments within sealed tanks. The first stage allows the cherries to ferment without oxygen, causing them to crush under their own weight and release natural fruit juices over 36 hours.

The resulting residual fermented juice, known as mossto, is then reintroduced into the coffee for another 36 hours of anaerobic fermentation. Mossto's high sugar concentration allows microbes in the fermentation process to convert it into new acids and exciting flavours. Following fermentation, the coffee dries on raised African beds for 20 – 24 days to a desired moisture content.

While new-age processing has sparked polarizing opinions within the specialty coffee industry, with valid arguments from both sides, we maintain the belief that a coffee should be valued for its inherent characteristics and the process should not overshadow its origin. Simultaneously, it shows promise that innovation can increase or maintain cup potential with consistency—an essential consideration in an era where climate change poses challenges to producing specialty coffee.